Diamond Shapes and Cut Guide

Choosing a diamond is one of the most meaningful parts of creating a piece of jewellery, whether you are selecting an engagement ring, a gift or something special for yourself. Understanding the difference between diamond shapes and cuts, and how each one influences brilliance and personality, will help you find a diamond that truly reflects your story. In this guide, we explore the diamond shapes that have endured across cultures, the craftsmanship of cut, and how these elements shape the personality of a piece, offering gentle guidance to help you choose the form that reflects your own aesthetic and spirit.

Diamond shape and diamond cut are often used as if they mean the same thing, but they refer to completely different qualities. Diamond Shape describes the outline or silhouette of a diamond. Examples include round, oval, pear, princess and emerald. Shape is the first thing you notice and it plays a central role in the character, mood and style of a piece. Diamond Cut refers to how well a diamond has been crafted. It describes the proportion, symmetry and arrangement of facets. The cut directly affects brilliance, sparkle and value. A well cut diamond reflects light beautifully, creating the brightness and fire diamonds are known for. A round diamond, for example, is a shape. A brilliant cut is the style of faceting applied to that shape.

Modern Cuts vs Old Mine Cuts: Modern cuts such as the round brilliant or radiant are engineered to maximise brilliance. Old mine cuts, often seen in antique pieces, have fewer facets and a soft, candlelit glow that reflects light in a slower, more intimate way. These diamonds have a handmade quality and a romantic charm prized by collectors. At Cleopatra’s Bling, we work with both modern and antique inspired cuts depending on the story and intention of the design.

Below is an overview of the most popular and enduring diamond shapes, many of which have travelled through the hands of Mughal stonecutters, Ottoman goldsmiths and early Cartier artisans. Each carries its own lineage, symbolism and sensorial presence.

The round brilliant is the most celebrated diamond shape in the world. Its 58 facets are engineered for maximum light return, a culmination of centuries of experimentation refined in the early twentieth century. This shape feels eternal and balanced, working beautifully in solitaires, halos and vintage inspired bezel settings. Discover our interpretations across diamond rings and engagement rings and love rings.

The princess cut has a bold, modern geometry that recalls the sharp silhouettes found in royal Indian jewellery and early Art Deco works. Its square form and crisp corners create bright, flickering light. We often set princess cuts in East West orientations to give them an unexpected and unconventional quality unique to Cleopatra’s Bling.

The emerald cut is known for its stillness and depth. Instead of brilliance, it offers a serene transparency that draws the eye inward. Originating from Renaissance table cuts and embraced by Art Deco masters, this shape feels architectural and contemplative. Explore emerald inspired pieces such as the Philemon Ring with Diamond or browse our rings and necklaces.

Oval diamonds feel fluid, expressive and flattering on every hand. Their elongated silhouette has been used in Ottoman and Indian gemstone settings for centuries, prized for its soft symmetry. They often appear larger than round stones of the same carat weight. The East West set Egeria Ring with White Diamond offers a modern, poetic interpretation of this historic cut.

The cushion cut carries a gentle, glowing presence that feels deeply rooted in history. Before modern cutting standards, diamonds were shaped by hand, producing rounded corners and pillowy silhouettes similar to those worn by Mughal emperors and Ottoman sultans. Cushions have an inviting warmth and radiate with a soft, ember-like fire.

The pear shape is expressive and lyrical. First developed in the mid-fifteenth century and later refined across Ottoman ateliers, it combines round and marquise forms to create movement and elongation. Pear diamonds look beautiful in earrings and pendants, and rings like the Daphne Ring Stack with Champagne Diamond. More pear silhouettes can be found in our earrings and drop earrings.

The marquise shape is spirited and dramatic, originally commissioned by Louis XV to resemble the smile of the Marquise de Pompadour. Its elongated, pointed form offers exceptional finger coverage and a sense of movement, making it a captivating option for lovers of artistry and flair.

Heart shaped diamonds are symbolic and intimate. Favoured in aristocratic courts as tokens of devotion, their form requires tremendous technical mastery. A heart diamond feels expressive and personal, making it a meaningful choice for bespoke rings and pendants.

The Asscher cut brings a sense of depth and quiet power. Created in 1902 by the Asscher family of Amsterdam, its step cut facets and clipped corners evoke both Art Deco geometry and the precision favoured by Ottoman stonecutters. It carries a lantern-like glow that feels nostalgic and sculptural.

The radiant cut offers a brilliant, energetic presence. Developed in the late twentieth century, it merges the sparkle of a round stone with the structure of an emerald cut. Its many facets create a lively, sunlit effect. This shape suits expressive statement designs such as the Agenor Ring with Yellow Diamond and also adapts gracefully to minimal silhouettes.

Diamond shape often reflects the wearer’s aesthetic sensibilities. Round diamonds feel classic and balanced. Oval shapes feel expressive and modern. Emerald cuts feel thoughtful and architectural. Princess cuts feel directional and contemporary. Cushion cuts feel romantic and nostalgic. Pear shapes feel poetic and feminine. Marquise shapes feel playful and dramatic. Asscher cuts feel sculptural and vintage inspired. Radiant cuts feel bold and energetic. Shape also influences how a diamond interacts with light and how it sits on the hand.

Cut is one of the most important factors in a diamond’s beauty and price. The cut determines how light enters and reflects through the stone, affecting brightness, fire and scintillation. Even diamonds with high clarity or high colour grades will appear dull if cut poorly. A well cut diamond enhances presence, making any shape look more alive. For more on the Four Cs, explore our Diamond Buyer’s Guide.

When choosing a shape, consider your personal style, hand proportions and the type of setting you gravitate toward. Classic styles suit round or emerald cuts. Romantic styles lean toward cushion and pear shapes. Modern styles pair well with princess and radiant cuts. If you want to elongate your hand, try oval, pear or marquise shapes. If you want visual balance, round, cushion and emerald will suit. For maximum brilliance, choose round, princess or radiant. For a softer glow, choose emerald, Asscher or old mine cuts. Consider your setting as well. Solitaires work with every shape. Halos amplify oval, pear, cushion and round shapes. East West settings complement emerald and oval cuts. For metal inspirations, explore our 18k gold plated and 24k vermeil collections.

Each diamond used at Cleopatra’s Bling is ethically sourced and certified through the Kimberley Process, ensuring responsible mining, fair labour and transparent trading. Our jewellery honours both beauty and lineage, connecting craft to heritage. Explore our diamond collections to find the shape and story that suits you, including our diamond jewellery, diamond rings and engagement and love rings.

What is the difference between diamond shape and diamond cut? Shape is the outline while cut determines brilliance.

Which diamond shape sparkles the most? The round brilliant.

What are the most popular diamond shapes? Round, oval, princess and emerald.

Which shape looks largest for its carat weight? Oval, marquise and pear.

Which shape is best for an engagement ring? Round is the most traditional, but oval, emerald and cushion shapes are increasingly popular.

How does cut affect brilliance and value? Cut determines light return, which significantly affects beauty and price.

Which shapes suit vintage inspired designs? Old mine cuts, cushion, emerald and Asscher cuts.

How do I choose a shape for my hand? Oval, pear and marquise elongate. Round and cushion flatter most hands.

Are some shapes more expensive? Round diamonds tend to be the highest due to demand and cutting loss.

What is the most timeless shape? The round brilliant.